From Michelin Excellence to the Roux Brothers and Pierre Koffmann, Chef Sameer Taneja’s Benares: A Journey Back Home

What a journey this guy’s been on.

I had the chance to sit down with Chef Sameer Taneja, the executive chef at Benares in Berkeley Square. You’d expect a Michelin-starred chef with his CV to be all puffed up with self-importance, but not Sameer. He’s not the type to humble brag with his hand earnestly resting on his chest, telling you ‘how grateful and humbled’ he is in that way that makes you cringe. No, Chef Sameer is the real deal—genuine through and through and that’s creates the experience.

I’ve been told this by more than one person in the industry, too, which says a lot. It’s rare to see a chef of his calibre, with all his Michelin-starred training, so eager to elevate and promote the people around him.

Often, you hear chefs very profoundly refer to themselves as “a humble cook.” Well, Chef Sameer actually embodies that. He’s built a culture where everyone in the kitchen is valued equally, no big titles or hierarchies to flex. That’s probably why his kitchen runs like such a tight ship.

Now, let me tell you about Benares, Mayfair. It’s a place where Michelin-star precision meets the warmth of home-cooked food. 

Sameer’s story starts in India, but for years, he focused on mastering classical French cuisine and enjoying western food. 

He trained under the best of the best—the Roux brothers, Pierre Koffmann—and honed his skills in some of the finest kitchens. But after a while, Koffmann, who’s trained legends like Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White, gave Sameer some advice: “Go back to your roots.” So, what did Sameer do? He said bye-bye to one of the world’s most famous chefs and went on an incredible food tour of India, which is still continuing. He began reconnecting with the simple, hearty dishes of his childhood—the kind of food that made him fall in love with cooking in the first place but he’d almost forgotten. 

Sameer also pays homage to the tradition of Benares itself. The restaurant was founded by the famous chef Atul Kochhar, who originally put it on the map. While respecting some of those foundational elements, Sameer has infused his own personal style, making Benares a place where the past and present meet on the plate.

One of the standout things about Sameer’s kitchen is how diverse it is. The team is made up of chefs from all different regions and backgrounds, and they even have these weekly competitions where each chef takes a turn to bring in a home-cooked dish—something simple and traditional, or sometimes inventive and creative. These dishes often find their way onto the menu, so it’s always evolving, with little tweaks and unique changes happening all the time. It’s rare to see this level of collaboration and openness in a Michelin-star kitchen.

You can always feel a chef’s presence in a restaurant. Trust me, when you walk into a place that feels uptight and overly pretentious, where the service is a bit too much and there’s this lofty arrogance (or insecurity) hanging in the air—you can be sure that the chef and owner are cut from the same cloth. At Benares, it’s the opposite. There’s a relaxed but precise atmosphere, a place where you can enjoy Michelin-starred food without feeling like you’re walking on eggshells.

Speaking of food, we went for the tasting menu, and honestly, every dish impressed. A few highlights? The venison tikka was a standout—perfectly balanced. The ceviche was bright and fresh, and the roadside snack-inspired bites were a real treat. One of the best dishes had to be the rich, creamy shorba—a traditional Indian soup that Sameer jazzed up with a touch of truffle. It was the kind of dish that sticks with you, long after the meal’s over. I also loved the little handwritten note that came with one of the courses, a nod to the humble snack trucks in India that set up under trees to escape the heat—a small but meaningful detail.

What’s nice about Benares is you leave feeling full—not just content, but properly full. That’s not something you get everywhere, especially in Michelin-starred places where the plates are tiny, and you’re impressed but slightly hungry after dinner. The portions here are measured but generous, and whether you go for the set menu or the tasting, you won’t be left wanting.

Now, let’s talk cocktails, because they were an unexpected highlight. The Old Fashioned was exceptional—and I mean it. I’m a pretty picky customer when it comes to cocktails, and I get annoyed when people mess a classic OF up. But this one was amazing. And then there was the cocktail of the month, a twist on a classic sour—the Achari Sour. It was one of the most original and nicest sours I’ve enjoyed with a subtle hint of spice that really made it stand out. It might not be on the menu when you go, but feel free to ask them about it—they might still be able to whip one up for you. It’s worth it…. Don’t quote me on that though.

So, if you’re looking for a Michelin-star experience without all the stuffiness, Benares is the place. It’s got heart, flavor, and a warmth that comes straight from the kitchen. Chef Sameer has found his way home, and in doing so, he’s constantly evolving something pretty special.